Process: Part 1 (Research)

The History of Hawaiian Tie-dye
Tapa cloth (a.k.a. kapa)
• Dying cloth was a secret; tradition ended in Hawaii decades ago
• Made from inner bark of paper mulberry (wauke)
• Soak, beat, dye using plants, animals, or minerals
• Ancient tapa makers used bark, roots, and fruits mainly

Traditional dye sources
• Turmeric tuber (ginger that grew in wet valleys): Y, O, gold
• Kukui tree: brown
• 'akala (native raspberry): lavenders, pinks
• fern leaves: R
• 'uki'uki (dianella lilly): B
• popolo (blak nightshade) & ma'o (cotton): G
• wana (sea urchin): lavender
interesting fact: Hawaiians named their dyes according to their source, not their color
• more unique and specific to the land
• when the tradition is passed down, people will remember what plants are used
• color is important, but plant itself is more important

Ancient/traditional dye methods
• "immersion and surface painting"
-immersion: when strips of tapa are dyed in cold or warm dyebath
• hot stones in dyebath
• repeated many times
• overlaying
• cord-snapping
• block printing for designs: bamboo stalks carved into patterns


Other Natural Dyes that I Could Use
• Ginger
• Aloe
• Wedelia
• Hibiscus
• Bixa
• Silver-dollar
• Tea, coffee, grape juice
• Pomegranate
• Plums
• Grapes (purple)
• Annatto (seed)
• Sunflower seed
• Spices: turmeric, paprika, chili powder, curry, saffron, shoyu
• Onion skins
• Beets
• Watercress
• Purple cabbage
• Carrot tops


Supplies needed
• Pots
• Bucket for rinsing
• Glass measuring cup
• Scale (optional)
• Stirring spoon; chopsticks
• Gloves


Procedure for Dying
• Cut/trim plant matter
• Soak in water (the longer, the better but not too long)
• Use same water to boil plants in
• Most plant colors can be extracted BELOW 180ºF (don't overcook, esp. with hibiscus blossoms and red ti leaves)
• Soak material before it enters dyebath (for even dyeing)
-Few hours ~ several days
• Boil water; stir continuous for first few minutes, then only occasionally
• Note: don't boil too much (because solution will dissolve → add water → more dilute)
• When finished, cool fabric in dyebath; rinse with water (optional: with some vinegar)
(I did not use any vinegar or other substances besides water)
• Dry material in shade